June 2026. Yerevan. A second night in Gyumri, exploring a Soviet amusement park, but deciding against the wheel, before heading back to the wonderful station on Thursday morning. I don’t think it actually sells tickets or anything, but it looks the part. Three hours later we’re back in Yerevan, bags dumped back in...

June 2026. Armenia. Churches, beer, statues, mountains, lakes. But what about Armenian food ? Well, there’s no obvious Chinese takeaway scene, but loads of pastries, and particularly good salads, notably at the smart Yaghli family diner on Rijkov Street, Gyumri’s main pedestrianised dining street (500 dram to the...

June 2026. Gyumri. Armenia. Pubs, art, weird food, churches….what else is there ? Armenia certainly has the churches, and a fair few folk (FFF) have questioned whether what there is to do if you don’t like touring monasteries. Gyumri’s classic is the rebuilt St. All Saviours, the orange and black exterior dominating...

June 2026. Gyumri. Armenia. Too hot to blog last night, a week ago in northern Armenia it was too hot to go trudging round back streets and scrubland in 33 degrees, but I always accept a challenge from my mate ChatGPT. “Given your track record, I wouldn’t be surprised if by Thursday you’re telling me where the best...

June 2026. Gyumri. Armenia. As so often, the demographic chart for Gyumri tells you quite a lot. A five-fold increase in 60 years, followed by a halving of the population after natural disaster and the demise of the Soviet empire in short order. One full day and night in Armenia’s second city is probably enough to...

June 2026. Gyumri. Armenia. Well, over the border in Armenia, actually, but we need to recognise the genius of Tony Joe White at every opportunity. Mrs RM had really wanted to take that midnight train to Georgia from Yerevan, but on reflection turning up at the Hotel Alexandrapol at 1am carried some risk. Armenian...

June 2026. Gyumri. Armenia. Stepping outside the Alexandrapol Palace at 8pm you see the length of the rebuilt main square up to St Saviours Church, but our thoughts are only on Untappd check-ins and healthy food, so it’s good that the Untappd options include an upmarket fish restaurant, kebab shop, and doughnut...

June 2026. Gyumri. Armenia. Unexpectedly, the two carriage “commuter” train left Yerevan bang on time, and arrived in Gyumri bang on time, 3:05 hours later. With that sort of reliability Armenian Rail should take over Northern Rail; it’d take a day to cross the Pennines but at least you’d know that in advance. A...

June 2026. Yerevan. Armenia. Mrs RM had curated (ugh) an exhaustive, and exhausting, itinerary for our seven nights in Armenia, on the basis we probably wouldn’t be back unless Manchester City play FC Noah in a qualifier for the Conference League. So, barely having arrived at Yerevan “Boutique” Hotel the night...

I’m disappointed that I’m missing the 2026 UK heatwave; don’t get many of those, do you ? Meanwhile in Yerevan; Oh. On our tours this week all that visitors from the Netherlands, Sweden and Kaliningrad wanted to talk about was the World Cup the weather, yet another thing the UK cultural export. Can we blame global...

June 2026. Armenia. There’s no stopping Mrs RM. No sooner did Wizz Air start twice-weekly flights from Luton to Armenia than she’s booked bargain seats and got a full itinerary for the trip, 16 hour bus tours and all. The theme for Yerevan will be ticking camels. I haven’t seen a camel yet. Or a pint of Bass. Our...

June 2026. Cambridge. Dad’s appetite was back on Sunday afternoon, and ours was raised by the sight of the Wrestlers opposite our £25 Travelodge on Newmarket Road, a rare Cambridge bargain. Charlie Wells have subtly worsened the sign after what feels like 30 years, but the menu is unchanged since my first Pad Thai...